Accommodation at Mwaya Beach, Malawi, Africa

Mwaya Beach is located on the northern shores of Lake Malawi, just 2.5km from the M5 “Lakeshore Road” which is the most frequently travelled route through Malawi between Nairobi and Harare. It is approximately 5 hours north east of Lilongwe International Airport and is directly across from Chizumulu and Likoma Islands.

Set in a secluded bay, Mwaya has been built to compliment the lovely natural surroundings. It is nestled between indigenous bush and clusters of large boulders on a pristine beach, which continues around the bay for another 3km in both directions.

From 1995 to 2002, Mwaya Beach was operated as a small rustic lodge with chalets, camping and a restaurant and bar for independent budget travellers. In 2003, Geoff and Liz Furber purchased the property and started RIPPLE Africa. They have personally financed the construction of all of the buildings and facilities at Mwaya Beach. Construction of all of the buildings, with the exception of the beach chalet, was started in 2004.

Accommodation for volunteers is provided in five chalets, which sleep two to four and may be mixed gender. The chalets were designed by Kevin Davies, an English architect who lived in Malawi for 12 years, and who specialises in eco-friendly buildings. They are constructed using sustainable softwood, together with reeds and locally produced roof tiles. The buildings are on raised pillars to reduce termite damage. Each chalet is furnished with wooden beds, wardrobes, chairs and tables made by local carpenters. Beds, mattresses, pillows, mosquito nets, blankets and bed linen are provided. Each chalet has a private verandah and views of the lake. Volunteers will most likely share a chalet.

There are two showers and three basins with hot and cold running water, and three flushing toilets in the shower block. A borehole has been drilled at the Mwaya Beach, providing safe drinking water.

Volunteers are responsible for all living expenses, and it is quite easy to live at Mwaya on US$15-30 per week. With several volunteers sharing food and supplies, such as paraffin and firewood, it can be even cheaper.

Family and friends are very welcome to visit volunteers and stay at Mwaya Beach during their placements. We charge US$10 per person per night for accommodation in the chalets (if any are vacant) and for camping, and this is payable to our managers at the end of their stay. In addition, there is a charge of US$5 per person per night as a contribution to the volunteer "kitty" for food and drinks, and this is payable to the volunteer in charge of the kitty. Please bear in mind that the chalets are primarily for the volunteers, and there may not always be chalet accommodation available. However, additional accommodation in the refurbished beach cottage and the guest chalet is available.

There is a meeting and training room with an adjoining deck which has beautiful views over the lake, beach, nearby islands and distant mountains of Mozambique. The deck is perfect for sunbathing and socialising, and meals can also be eaten there under the brilliant southern stars in the evenings to the sounds of gently lapping waves and the sight of placidly gliding fishermen in their wooden dug out canoes.

At the centre of the property, with stunning views of the lake through the mango trees, there is the kitchen and storeroom. Although there is no electricity at the lodge, there is a solar fridge to keep food fresh.

The Local Village

People from the Tonga tribe make up the majority of the population in the Chibako village area, of which Mwaya is a part. However, many people have moved to the village from other parts of Malawi and Mozambique for fishing, marriage, establishing small businesses, war refuge, and government job appointments. Therefore, the villagers are very accepting of outsiders.

It is a close-knit, subsistence farming and fishing community. Poverty is extreme yet in a rural and not an urban sense. Money is scarce. Most people rely on the land for food and materials to build houses. Those who do have jobs earn in the region of US$17-30 per month. Many people receive US$10-15 every few months from relatives working in more prosperous neighbouring countries such as South Africa, Tanzania or Zambia. Often several extended family members must pool together to pay secondary school fees for one child, which amount to US$20-60 per year.

As many of the men have worked outside of Malawi, English is commonly spoken. Few women, however, speak anything other than ChiTonga. For various reasons, people are uncomfortable actually living near the lakeshore, mainly as the soil is very sandy and unfavourable for farming and raising livestock, making the beaches fairly unpopulated. Unlike some indigenous groups in southern and central Africa, the Tonga people are traditionally very calm and passive. And like most Malawians, they are generally incredibly friendly.

The Surrounding Area

Built around several small bays on rolling hills, Nkhata Bay is a bustling, potentially picturesque port town with a market, superette, several craft and curio stalls, and a handful of other guest lodges and restaurants. However, it is very dirty and run down now. It is the Government administrative centre for the District, and there is an Immigration Office there as well.The port is the departure point for the ferry to Likoma and Chizumulu islands, Rurawe and Usisya, which are inaccessible by road and highly recommended for a visit, and Mbamba Bay in Tanzania. It is also a very popular place for budget travellers. Nkhata Bay is 60km north of Mwaya.

Mzuzu is the largest town in the Northern Region of Malawi, and it has Banks with ATMs, shops, internet, and accommodation. Mzuzu is 100km from Mwaya, and 40km inland (west) from Nkhata Bay. Set in the Viphya Mountains, the air is crisp and there is a pleasant atmosphere. At the west end of town there is a huge marketplace selling everything from food to spare auto parts.

Chintheche is the nearest town to Mwaya Beach and is 25km away to the north. It is convenient for its post office, shops, rural hospital, superette, and internet connection. It is also the nearest substantial market and has electricity.

Security

Although Malawi is one of the safest countries in Africa, petty thieving can occur and is not uncommon in such an impoverished community. We employ six watchmen in total; five are employed to patrol the property every night, and one is on duty during the day and every weekend. The ‘core’ staff at the beach have been consistently reliable and trustworthy over the years, but often new or temporary staff are taken on due to people finding more enticing work in South Africa, Tanzania or Zambia.

It is very, very important to keep the following in mind:

Although every attempt has been made to ‘spread the word’ that volunteers are there to help while receiving no salary and having given up good jobs back home to do so, it really is out of our control and up to everyone individually to be extremely diligent. Most people in the community are outraged by even the pettiest of crimes.

Food and Supplies

The main staple of the village is ‘nsima’, which is ground maize or cassava porridge, also known as ‘mealie meal’, 'sadza', ‘ugali’, etc., in other parts of Africa. It is normally eaten with a vegetable relish which is sometimes supplemented by freshly caught fish. Many nutritious foods are available locally (including pumpkin leaves, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, rice, cabbages, tomatoes, locally caught fish, fresh fruits, etc.) which are very cheap and provide much needed variety. It’s very easy to live simply, but healthily.

Harry, the cook, is on hand six days a week (Thursday is his day off) to prepare all meals. The kitchen can be used by the volunteers as well.

Harry’s ‘repertoire’ includes: freshly baked bread, meat or vegetable pies, smoked fish or tuna crepes, samosas, meatballs, curry, bean or vegetable burgers, roast chicken and roast potatoes, soups, fish cakes, stews, pasta, fried fish or chicken, fried rice, banana/pawpaw (papaya)/mango pancakes, French toast, omelettes, banana bread, poached eggs, fruit salad, mango/pawpaw/ pineapple crumble, custard, etc.

The following list gives a rough idea of prices (approximate conversion rates are 1US$ = MK142, 1GBP = MK195, or 1€ = MK182, as of March 2009):

Dried chillies, ground chilli powder and curry spices can be found at the back of Mzuzu market. Macadamia nuts can also occasionally be found in Nkhata Bay market and are delicious in sauces and pestos. There is a People's superette in Chintheche (25km north of Mwaya). They stock some foods which cannot be found in the village or local markets, such as cheese, sausages, bacon, coffee, and offer slightly cheaper prices on such things as cooking oil, milk powder, tea, rice, toilet paper, and so on.

It’s a good idea to have a wander around the markets and ‘superettes’ in Lilongwe, Mzuzu, Nkhata Bay, Chintheche, and/or Kande to get an idea of what is available and a feel for prices. It is possible to have fresh vegetables delivered weekly from the Green Shop in Mzuzu as there is a limited choice available locally. Other volunteers will be invaluable in showing you the ropes concerning food and budgeting living expenses. Although things like cooking oil, sugar, flour, yeast, etc., are cheaper in the bigger towns, it’s worthwhile to spend a few extra kwacha buying it locally, usually at Mr. Nkusango’mbe’s shop on the main road, to save yourself the hassle of carrying it all back and also to support the local community.

Mwaya Beach: The Home of RIPPLE Africa Video